Alma and Marcos Romero
A People of Bella Vista Feature
by Larry Lindsay for BVNA Historic Committee
Alma and Marcos Romero are the owners of Alma del Mar, the relatively new Mexican seafood restaurant, and Marcos Fish and Crab House, a few doors down the street in the heart of the 9th Street Italian Market.
The Romero family and the opening of the restaurant were the subject of an episode of the popular series Queer Eye, which ran in July of 2020 but was filmed before the restaurant opened in June. The theme was the family, of paramount importance in Mexican culture, and indeed all cultures.
Alma and her husband came directly to South Philly in 1998 from Mexico only three months after they were married in their home town of San Martin Texmelucan, just west of the City of Puebla, lying at the foot of the famous and legendary sister volcanos Izaiztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl (later an active volcano), between Veracruz and Mexico City. It’s a region known for its cuisine, its Talavera ceramic tiles, and its colonial architecture. UNESCO named the city of Puebla a World Heritage Site in 1987. The newlyweds had seen images of the Love sculpture on the internet, and thought, “Perfect.”
In South Philly, they have thrived as a family. Together they raised four beautiful children and started their first business. Alma’s brother and sister and their own families have since joined the Romeros. Each sibling has a fruit and vegetable stand on the same block.
Alma has a twinkle in her eye, and a beautiful smile when she talks about the neighborhood. “I love the market and I love the community. ” Those eyes and that same smile are mirrored in her sister Karina. “We look like twins, we all look like my father,” Alma says with a laugh.
When asked what she does in her spare time, Alma replies, “Spare time ? We are always at work. Today is my son’s eighth birthday, and here I am at the restaurant.”( I was glad she didn’t add “ talking to you”). …. But is there something you do for fun? “Well, I enjoy sewing.” Music? “My husband enjoys playing the guitar” she replies. And you sing along? Again the smile — “Only in the shower.” “She enjoys helping others,” adds her daughter, Karen, who is sitting nearby. When she does have the time, Alma volunteers at Puentes de Salud, a non- profit medical and social services clinic for the Hispanic community located at 17th and South Street.
Despite the boost given by the Queer Eye episode, business this first year, the year of COVID, has been extremely difficult for the Romero Family. “Three months ago I was considering giving up, but lately things are improving slightly, as more and more people become vaccinated.” A member of the Association of Mexican Business Owners of Philadelphia, Alma did not know of any member of the association who was able to take advantage of the COVID relief offered this past year, and she is uncertain as to the reason. As a result, she and eleven other restaurant owners in South Philadelphia began their own relief effort, a GoFundMe account called the South Philly Mexican Business COVID Relief Fund with a goal of raising $50,000. So far they have raised $43,000.00 to be divided between the twelve businesses.
When asked where she learned to cook, Alma credits her mother with the basics but she has been more innovative, reflected in Alma del Mar’s eclectic seafood fusion menu.
Her favorite? “Polpo al Carbon,” the grilled octopus.